In the Trenta valley there are two climbing areas equipped for free climbing: Trenta, Pri Pavru, and Zadnjiški Ozebnik with several longer routes. In the vicinity, there are two more climbing areas: the Vršič Pass and Kal Koritnica, a climbing area just before Bovec.
Climbing seasons lasts from spring to autumn, but the Kal Koritnica routes can only be climbed in summer. Except for Zadnjiški Ozebnik, all the other climbing areas are great for family climbing.
The climbing area is 4.5 km from Trenta (Triglav National Park Information Centre) in the direction of Bovec. It’s situated on the right bank of the river Soča, rising above the galleries which protect the road from rock avalanches occasionally slipping off from Berebica (Mt).
You can leave your car on the right side of the road, just behind the gallery. Cross the footbridge over the Soča and in about 5 minutes you’ll reach Pri Plajerju.
The routes are around 15 m in length. On the left, wider block there are 8 routes, with grades ranging from 4a to 6a+. On the right block there are 7 routes with grades ranging from 6a to 7a. Most routes are graded between 4a and 6b+.
The climbing area is located 2.2 km from Trenta (Triglav National Park Information Centre) in the direction of the Vršič Pass.
There is a small car park opposite St Mary's Church where you can leave your car. Cross the footbridge over the Soča, and go left along the Soča Trail. You will reach the climbing area in 5-10 minutes.
The routes are 15-40 m in length. You may need a 60-metre rope for most routes, and on longest routes abseil chains have been placed in the middle of the wall. There are 16 routes in the climbing area, graded from 4a to 7c+, although most of them stay between 4a and 6b+.
The face of Zadnjiški Ozebnik can be seen from the car park in front of the Triglav National Park Information Centre; it is to the left behind the building.
The climbing area can be accessed from the Zadnjica valley. Drive into the valley at curve number 50. About 500 m after you have taken the turning off the main Bovec – Vršič road, there is a small car park just past the first house in the Zadnjica valley (Trenta No. 56). Go back along the road for about 250 m from the car park and cross the only bridge over the Krajcarica stream.
In the walls of Ozebnik you will find several longer routes, protected according to the standards of sports climbing, with a short access and a fast descent by abseil. When in the wall, wear a helmet, and bring 12 quickdraws and a double rope for descent. The routes are 210-440 m in length.
There are four routes in Zadnjiški Ozebnik.
First pitch follows the inclined slabs in the fall line of the large grey corner.
Descent: descend down the route.
Difficulty Rating: 7b (7a obligatory)
Pitches: 1. 4bc, 2. 4bc, 3. 6b+, 4. 6c+, 5. 6a+, 6. 7a, 7. 6a+, 8. 7b, 9. 6b, 10. 6a
Use the same start as Gorska roža / Mountain Flower then go along the path across an overgrown slope to the ledge just below the beginning of the route. The first belay is to the right of the characteristic niche.
Descent: first two pitches along Kopiščar’s Route, then down Gorska roža / Mountain Flower.
Difficulty Rating: 7a (6c obligatory)
Pitches: 1. 6b+, 2. 6b+, 3. 6c, 4. 6c+, 5. 6b, 6. 6b, 7. 7a, 8. 4bc, 9. ledge, 10. 6b+
Enter at the beginning of a typical white edge, which finishes in the dihedral.
Descent: preferably down Harkelin Route or down Krajcarica
Difficulty Rating: 6a+ (5c obligatory)
Pitches: 1. 6a, 2. 5c, 3. 6a+, 4. 6a+, 5. 6a+
Enter at the beginning of a typical white edge, which finishes in the dihedral.
Descent: preferably down Harkelin Route or down Krajcarica
Difficulty Rating: 6a+ (5c obligatory)
Pitches: 1. 6a, 2. 5c, 3. 6a+, 4. 6a+, 5. 6a+
Enter at the characteristic white edge just right of Mountain Flower
Descent: descend down the route.
Difficulty Rating: 6c+ (6b obligatory)
Pitches: 1. 6a, 2. 6a, 3. 6b, 4. 6c+, 5. 6c, 6. ledges – easy, 7. 6b+, 8. ledges – easy, 9. 6c, 10. 6a, 11. 6b
The climbing area is located 3.5 km from Bovec and 20 km from Trenta.
In the village Kal Koritnica you can leave your car in the car park by the main Bovec – Trenta road. The path to the climbing area runs left past the bus stop to the water trough where a mountain trail to Svinjak begins. Walk for 5 minutes after you have passed the water trough. Go along the path to the left and in 5 minutes you will reach the climbing area.
The routes are 7-35 m in length. Altogether there are 23 routes in three sectors. Most of them are relatively easy, with grades between 5a and 6a, and the rest are graded up to 7c+.
The climbing area is in the close vicinity to the mountain pass Vršič, just below the trail leading towards Zavetišče pod Špičkom.
The car park is on top of the pass, and it takes about 10 minutes to reach the climbing area on foot. A double rope isrecommended for the descent along the multi-pitch climb.
The routes are 18-100 m in length. Altogether there are 35 routes in two sectors. The routes are graded between 4b and 7b, there are 24 routes graded 6b+.
Source: 2005. Slovenia, Climbing Guide. Sidarta.
Slovenščina